Are The Molecular Formulas For Amino Acids The Same My Friend Asked About Magical Anti-Aging Skin Care Products

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My Friend Asked About Magical Anti-Aging Skin Care Products

About a month ago, a friend approached me asking if I had heard of a certain range of ‘anti-aging’ products.

These products were sold by someone we both know and were marketed as superior products containing ‘botanicals’.

My friend was given samples of the products, and while he was suspicious of the long, chemical-sounding name of some of the ingredients (I caught him well!) He agreed that the creams he tested seem to have softened the fine lines. in his eyes and removed his skin in general.

My friend was interested to know if I could research the ingredients to try to find out what the magic formula is and if there are any problems with using the products for a long time.

It didn’t take me long to compile a 3 page report on the main ingredients of these products, as many of the same ingredients are widely used in many products on the market.

While we’re talking about ‘marketing’… it was reported in the Guardian newspaper that “cosmetic companies are asking laboratories to carry out tests that will allow them to make certain claims and there are no regulatory bodies that regulate scientific studies carried out inside the lab.”

Cosmetic companies often trade in ‘secret’ ingredients to avoid peer review or criticism. This also means that the customer can’t get information about what they are using! ‘Botanicals’ are often extracted from natural substances using chemicals. This process can remove the ‘life force’ and beneficial properties from what used to be natural and leave behind toxic residues.

Two of the most common ingredients in a moisturizer or eye cream are mineral oil and glycerin:

Mineral oil will coat the skin like plastic, while it can make the skin feel soft and not allow the skin to breathe or detoxify.

Glycerin is a low-cost humectant (attracts moisture from the atmosphere) at humidity above 65%. In the humidity below that, in a dry environment for example, whether it is natural or air-conditioned, glycerin will actually attract moisture inside the skin and hold it on the surface, making the skin hard, but it dries the skin from the inside, outside, causing dehydration.

As these 2 ingredients were on the label, it can be assumed that this is how my friend’s fine lines were smoothed and her skin smoothed.

Peptides are another popular ingredient in anti-aging products. They are simply five amino acids linked in a chain. The complete length of chains of amino acids linked together are peptides. If there are two amino acids they are called dipeptides, if there are three – tripeptide etc. Peptides have many beneficial functions within the body but most studies on the skin benefits of peptides have been conducted on cell cultures and not on humans.

The studies done by Proctor & Gamble on human test studies do little to support any anti-aging claims. According to the ASA most of the experimental studies in a paper published by P&G in the peer reviewed International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2005), reported no effect.

Peptides cannot normally penetrate the skin and maintain stability due to their hydrophilic (water-loving) nature. In addition, when they are able to enter the enzymes of the skin, they can break them down, quickly stopping their effects.

AHAs … It has been suggested that AHAs can cause the skin to age faster and raise the risk of skin cancer, due to their ability to remove the outer layer of the skin that can increase sensitivity to the sun, thus increasing photo aging. In one study AHA glycolic acid increased the sensitivity of human skin to sunburn by 50 percent in some people (1).

Research done on guinea pigs found that AHA glycolic acid caused skin damage, with high doses changing the texture of the skin and destroying some parts of the epidermal layer, as well as increasing skin damage caused by UVB, to a much greater extent. either glycolic acid or UVB alone.

Paraben preservatives: Any ingredient that contains ethyl, methyl, butyl, propyl is a Paraben preservative and has been found in the tumor tissue of women with breast cancer. These chemicals are very controversial, because they are said to be safe, although there is a lot of evidence that they can be absorbed by the body. Much to consumer suspicion and backlash, many manufacturers claim ‘Paraben free’ products.

Many manufacturers will use ‘penetration enhancers’ to help their active ingredients penetrate deeper into the skin. The problem here is that toxins can penetrate deep into the skin and blood (think HRT & nicotine patches).

One of these substances is Disodium EDTA. This chemical is irritating to the skin, eyes and respiratory system. Animal studies show: constipation, stomach problems, liver, kidney and endocrine system effects and reproductive disorders. It is also a weak mutagen in microbial systems. In a number of studies on mammalian cells in vitro, it inhibits DNA synthesis.

Nanoparticles are increasingly added to cosmetic products even though there is no information about their safety. For example, nano-size titanium dioxide and zinc oxide particles are used in sunscreens to protect against UV rays without leaving a white tinge on the skin.

Toothpastes contain biocomposites to promote tooth repair. Nanocapsules are used to transport active ingredients deep into the skin (which is a concern because if nanoparticles are absorbed into the bloodstream they can be transported throughout the body and cause damage to DNA).

Fullerenes (football molecules consisting of carbon atoms) are used for this purpose, but have been found to cause DNA damage and cell death in human tissues and brain damage in fish exposed to modest concentrations. It has been found that carbon nanotubes cause the same type of damage as asbestos.

There are antioxidants and vitamins added to cosmetics but there are amounts that may be too small to have any effect. Retinyl Palminate vitamin A derivative is shown to improve small wrinkles – unfortunately, it decomposes under UVA into chemicals that have been shown to cause mouse lymphoma cells. Is the photo toxic – it will cause aging of the skin, damage to the learned DNA. This chemical is banned in Canada.

Another popular vitamin – Vit.C improves sun damage and improves the production of collagen and elastin – commercial products contain low concentrations that are not easily absorbed by the skin and are unstable when exposed to oxygen – oxidization can stimulate production. of free radicals.

I couldn’t finish this article without including the sunscreen ingredient as this is one of the biggest selling points made by the manufacturers. The sun causes more skin damage than anything else, except smoking

But there are chemicals to avoid, such as Oxybenzone – this chemical is claimed to be one of the most common causes of photophobia. Immediate and delayed hypersensitivity, found in human urine and milk. It can damage DNA under UV light. It is a skin moisturizer and penetration enhancer. It is used in many sunscreens!

(1)’NICNAS: A Report on the Assessment of Key Existing Chemicals,’ Australian Government, Department of Health and Aging, National Industry Notification and Assessment Scheme (NICNAS), Marrickville, NSW, 2000 (12): 128;

(2) Park, KS et al, Effect of Glycolic Acid on UVB-Induced Skin Damage and Inflammation in Guinea Pigs, Skin Pharmacology and Applied Skin Physiology, July-August, 2002: 15 (4): 236-245.

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