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## How to Figure the Number of Rings Needed to Make a Byzantine Necklace

Byzantine is the most popular, well-known weave in chainmaille jewelry. There are many places on the internet to find patterns, but most people have a hard time figuring out what size to use and how many stitches they will need. It doesn’t help that many of the old patterns were written long ago when link makers made their own links using the cut shank of a screw driver or a wooden dowel that actually shrunk a little each time they used it. Then they would place the ring down on the ruler and choose the nearest fraction as the size.

Today links are made more precisely. Specialized mandrels are machines in the world that are accurate millimeters. Digital calipers will give you accurate readings. High-quality cut diamonds are sold by the troy ounce in hundreds of sizes. Many sizes, in fact, beginners are often confused by all the options, especially if they try to convert from fractions of an inch if their pattern calls for the size of millimeters used by many chainmaille ring companies.

After many trials, the proper size of the Byzantine Weave was created. Once you’ve decided what wire gauge you want to work with, you can choose the correct ring size, based on these tips. But how many to buy? To answer that, you need a lot more information, which you can only provide: How long do you want your link? The next step in the formula is “How many rings do you need to knit an inch of chain”? To estimate this you really need to knit an inch of chain and count it. Fortunately, this step has already been done for you.

So now we’re down to simple math. The ideal size for a Byzantine ring in 22 gauge is 2.25mm id and you need 40 links to make an inch of the link. If you want a 20-inch necklace, the formula will look like this: 20 (link inches) x 40 (links per inch (rpi)) = 800 22ga / 2.25mm links.

To increase the gauge to 20, the correct ring size is 2.75mm id and rpi is 33. Again, I’m using a 20 inch chain as my example. 20 x 33 = 660 20ga / 2.75mm rings.

If you want to use 18 gauge wire, you will want to order 3.5mm id rings, and you will need 26 rings per inch. 20 x 26 = 520 18ga / 3.5mm rings.

The most popular size of Byzantine wire is 16 gauge and 4.5mm id is the ideal ring. For this size, you need 20 links per inch: 20 (chain length) x 20 (links per inch) = 400 16ga / 4.5mm links.

With 14 gauge wire, you go up to 5.5mm id rings, and 16 rings per inch. 20 x 16 = 320 14ga / 5.5mm rings.

Keep in mind that this does not take the length of the clasp into account. You need to measure it and subtract that number from the length of your chain. Or leave it in the margin of error if you lose a ring or two.

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